English Italiano Franšais Deutsch
Solved! ASUS New CPU installed issue
All the operations described on this page are at your own risk. The author of this article assumes no responsibility regarding the problems arising from the transactions described. This article will prepared for information purposes only.
Issues are the corners.
Click on the image to enlarge it.
How to remove the socket.
Click on the image to enlarge it.
(Warning! This solution is at your own risk!)
The problem with "New CPU Installed!" each time at boot, is due to the structure of the surface of the socket (the plastic part with holes for the pins, usually white) mounted on ASUS motherboards.
The corners of the socket of some ASUS motherboards are higher than the edge and (perhaps) of the supporting points raised in the inside the socket itself and the edges joining consecutive corners.
The pressure of the radiator, in some cases, especially with heavy radiators and do not rely on the octagon plastic that attaches the heatsink bundled, the processor goes down, folding up the corners of green board of the processor, the one where the pins are placed.
After bending, the processor is tight during use, due to the movement, thermal excursion and vibrations (movement extremely small), does believe in the BIOS that is continually a new processor.
If you use the original heat sink or decrease the pressure of the heat sink in use, the problem is less frequent, but there: just move the sink and, at least the first time after the movement, the message "New CPU Installed" is returns.
I was able to verify this, because my cooler CoolerMaster Gemini II requires the dismantling of original support for heatsinks standards (the octagon plastic which the heat sink hooks).
The Gemini II heatsink was previously mounted on a Gigabyte motherboard and never gave me trouble.
The problem seems to occur mainly with AMD PHENOM (AMD Phenom X4 II I have not encountered this problem).
Solution 1 (which worked for me)
I replaced the socket with that of a GIGABYTE motherboard, which is flat and without gradients.
When you first start the problem has come back again, but I screwed the bolts in the sink with only hands.
I just screwed the bolts with the screwdriver by increasing the pressure on the processor (the one that I should not do with the socket before) and the problem that has plagued me for a few months is gone.
At first startup, the bios has detected the new processor but did not ask pressing F1 or F2.
The PC starts up without crashing or generating errors (and with the overclocking settings, usually with "new cpu installed" were not initialized).
I tried to shake the heat sink and pull hard to see if the bios still detect movements of the CPU: No error.
No more "New CPU Installed!".
How to remove the socket
Remove the processor.
Remove the plastic octagon for the attachment of the radiator.
Raise the metal lever that locks the processor in a vertical position (open socket).
The hidden part of the lever acts as a hinge.
Pull the lever out with little force to break the socket.
The lever and pulling out the first shot even make a second shot and the socket is free.
Gently take the angle at the point of removal of the lever that will raise more than the others and with little force, with the aid of a pin, drive the socket from home.
How to mount the new socket
Get a socket-shaped flat egg taken from another motherboard (if you have one available).
I used the socket of a motherboard GIGABYTE.
Typically, the sockets have the same type of seat rails.
Warning! socket replacement could be lower than the original!
After mounting the heatsink, make sure it is fully in contact with the upper surface of the processor
Put the new socket on the base with the copper contacts and replace the lever, always upright, until it stops.
Make a slight pressure on the socket until you hear a click confirming the locked position of the seat with the sliding rod of the lever.
Make sure the heatsink is positioned properly on the CPU without leaving space.
Do not worry if the socket, then, will be weaker.
The pressure of the heatsink and the lock lever will balance the mechanism.
Solution 2 (not tested!)
In my opinion, you can shave the corners (corners only) of the socket with ultra-fine sandpaper (nail file, and uses throws), so as to eliminate bending of the processor under pressure.
In doing so, it should cover the holes for the pins with masking tape to prevent dust fit into one the copper contacts.
However, I suggest you spray flux for electrical circuits on the socket, after filing for remove residual dust.
The angles SHOULD NOT be filed fully specified, but leveled repeatedly trying to remove the surface can not and mounting the CPU from time to time to achieve the optimal level.
The zones are shown in the image to file: it is only shave the corners circled in red, indicated by arrows red.